—by Awais Khan and Valpuri Sovero, Cornell University

On our recent sabbatical leave, from August 2023 to January 2024, we had the opportunity to travel through and near some historically important apple regions.
Apples hold exceptional appeal for people, for more than just nutrition or taste. They are featured in creation myths and tales, and they carry rich symbolic meaning across many cultures — representing health, prosperity, wisdom and even love. Apples are believed to have originated in the Tian Shan mountains covering the borderlands of Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan and China. From there, they traveled with traders along the Silk Road, through Türkiye to Europe.
There are over 7,500 named apples worldwide, but our experiences led us to travel to the homes of two particularly delicious and culturally significant apples in these cradles of apple origin, domestication and spread: the Amasya apple of Türkiye and the Aport of Central Asia, most famous in Kazakhstan.
When we came across Amasya apples at a fruit market in Ankara, Türkiye, we were really excited to get to taste them at their peak. They were crisp, sweet and tangy, and worth the wait. We left Ankara later that day, driving toward the Black Sea city of Samsun. Approximately four hours from Ankara, we passed through the region and city of Amasya itself. Of course, we couldn’t pass the chance to stop by and see the area and explore the city. Amasya turned out to be a beautiful and historic town in northern Türkiye and offered more than just ancient history, with an impressive castle (Hars¸ene Castle), mosques, rock tombs and stunning scenery. It also gave the name to these special apples, the Amasya apples, a local treasure with a long history.
So, what makes Amasya apples so special? These blush-red apples aren’t your average supermarket find. They are sweet and tart, with a crisp, juicy bite, perfect for snacking. However, Amasya apples are more than just a great fruit. Although not all Amasya apples are genetically the same but rather a group of naturally related apples, they are a link to the past, tradition and a symbol of cultural pride in the region. The color and shape of Amasya apples have inspired art for centuries. They appear in intricate tile patterns, are woven into carpets and are captured in paintings. In fact, all through the city of Amasya, we saw the official city logo of an apple, showing how much the apple means to the identity of the city. Then, on our way out of the city, we saw stand after stand on the roadside selling all kinds of apples, but especially Amasya apples in specially labeled boxes.

Grown throughout Northern and Central Türkiye, these apples thrive in Amasya’s unique climate, near the Yes¸ilırmak River and Pontic Mountains. The special mix of sunshine, humidity and soil gives them a unique flavor and character. Unlike other apples, Amasyas have a short storage life. They don’t last long or travel well, making them a rare treat. But for those lucky enough to try one, it’s a taste of tradition. Families in the Amasya region have been growing these apples for generations, and they’re a proud part of local culture.
During our travels in Central Asia, we planned especially to visit Almaty, Kazakhstan, which translates to “Father of Apples.” The city lived up to its name, with apple fountains and sculptures sprinkled throughout the city and preparations underway for a citywide apple festival. A colleague in Kyrgyzstan, Gulmira Sariyeva from Issyk-Kul State University at Karakol, had told us about the most famous apple of Kazakhstan, the Aport, and encouraged us to seek it out on our visit. One evening in Almaty, with another colleague, Kuatbayev Azat Kuangalievich from Caspian University, we had the chance to visit the Alma (“apple” in Kazakh) art exhibit, focusing on Kazakh apple art from the collections of the State Museum of Arts of the Republic of Kazakhstan. Many of these beautiful paintings had the Aport as their subject, in addition to other themes on apples in Kazakhstan. It was clear how important apples are to the identity of Almaty, and the Aport in particular.
The Aport is a king among apples, celebrated in the orchards of Kazakhstan and Central Asia. It is renowned for exceptional size, vibrant blush color and excellent taste. These huge apples — often much bigger than their supermarket counterparts and weighing over 200 grams, or over 50 percent more than many standard apples — have a vibrant red skin with golden streaks.
At the famous Green Bazaar, the large indoor market of Almaty, among the many interesting local and international apples, we saw that every seller had beautiful, enormous Aport apples. It was exciting to finally try these apples that we had heard so much about. They were delicious, with a complex flavor profile, a good balance of sweetness and tartness and an excellent crispy texture.

But the Aport’s story goes beyond its impressive size, connecting with the region’s history and culture like the roots of an ancient tree. Nobody knows for sure where Aport apples originated. Some historians trace its lineage back to 17th-century Russia, specifically the city of Voronezh. Others, drawing inspiration from the region’s rich trade history, propose an even earlier arrival via the Silk Road, suggesting Central Asia as its true birthplace.
Regardless of its precise beginnings, the Aport has found a perfect home in the sunny, rocky lands of Kazakhstan and its neighbors. The Aport exhibits remarkable resilience, thriving with minimal care in the region’s harsh continental climate. In fact, Aport apples grown in the mountains near Almaty are said to be more delicious and larger than when grown in more temperate climates.
Beyond its physical presence, the Aport has earned its place among the cultural heritage of Central Asia. For Kazakhs, these large fruits are more than just a delicious snack; they are a symbol of abundance and prosperity. They are integrated into Kazakh culture, featured in songs and proverbs and appear on festive tables as a symbol of prosperity and success. Its resilience reflects the strength of the people who grow it, a tribute to their dedication to preserving their traditions. Today, the Aport apple continues to be a cherished part of Central Asian life. Local farmers take great pride in cultivating these remarkable fruits, their orchards filled with the stories and customs passed down through generations.
Unfortunately for those who love them today, and for future generations, these two regional icons are now threatened due to the extensive commercial orchards that emerged in the early 21st century in both Türkiye and Central Asia. The introduction of faster-fruiting varieties with longer storage and transportation capabilities has taken its toll, leading to a decline in Aport and Amasya apple production. These newer varieties are often better suited for high-density orchard systems, have extended storage and shelf life and are selected for consistent fruit quality.
In contrast, many historical apples, though rich in genetic diversity and unique flavors, often lack these commercially desirable traits. As a result, they risk being overshadowed or even lost in the pursuit of commercial success and profitability. What do we lose when we lose a treasured apple? Not only the flavor, but we also lose a link to the past and to the future potential in terms of the genetic diversity it can provide.
So, the next time you see an Aport or Amasya apple, take a moment to appreciate its journey, as these are more than just a fruit. They are a representation of history, culture and the resilient people who grow them. And who knows, maybe it’ll become your new favorite, too! •
Awais Khan is a plant geneticist at the School of Integrative Plant Science, and Valpuri Sovero is a web designer at Cornell University’s College of Agriculture and Life Sciences.
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