—story by Kate Prengaman
—photos by TJ Mullinax
The Washington wine industry gathers this week in Kennewick, Washington, to collaborate on the challenges facing the industry and celebrate the careers of industry leaders.
WineVit, the convention and tradeshow hosted by the Washington Winegrowers Association, kicked off Monday, Feb. 10 with the award luncheon before heading into an afternoon of practical talks on canopy management and navigating the economic realities of today’s wine market.
An industry panel, including growers Marty Olsen and Hermann Thoennissen, real estate broker and asset manager Bradley Calaway, and AgWest relationship manager Casey Cox discussed the present economic downturn in stark terms.
“If you lose more money growing the fruit than to do nothing, why are you growing the fruit? That’s the situation we are in,” said Olsen, co-owner of Olsen Bros. Ranches, a diversified farm in Prosser that grows grapes, apples, cherries and hops. All are struggling right now, he added. “Hopefully this will force the hands of all farmers to take out blocks that need to come out.”
Bringing supply back in line with demand will allow the industry to become profitable again, he said.
Meanwhile, it’s more imperative than ever to use precision accounting to understand operational costs, Thoennissen said.
“If you don’t have precision accounting, you can never do precision farming. Without detailed cost analysis, you can’t validate what you call precision farming,” said Thoennissen, a grape and tree fruit grower and consultant.
Cox, the banker, stressed that protecting sufficient working capital and not becoming overextended will help farm businesses survive in the short term and have the capital to seize opportunities ahead.
On the theme of seizing opportunities, the industry also celebrated leaders, recognizing several careers longer than 40 years and who helped to build the Washington wine industry.
Grower Kent Waliser of Sagemoor Vineyards presented the Grand Vin Award, which honors leaders in the cellar, to Rob Griffin, founder of Barnard Griffin Winery.
“It is said that if he buys your fruit, it’s a statement,” Waliser said. “He believes you start with good fruit from good people and handle it with passion and respect for the craft.”
Griffin, a California native, came to Washington for his first harvest in 1977 and worked at Hogue Cellars before founding Barnard Griffin in Richland with his wife, Deborah Barnard, in 1983.
Hogue Cellars was also the launching point for the recipient of the Industry Service Award, Dave Copeland, who was presented the award by longtime colleague David Forsyth. Copeland now serves as operations director at Four Feathers Wine Services.
“I’m so blessed to have worked with Mike Hogue, who was one of the greatest storytellers this industry ever had, when my journey started in the ’80s,” Copeland said. “What an opportunity. And what an honor, thank you.”
Forsyth praised Copeland’s work to build three of Washington’s leading wineries: Hogue Cellars, Mercer Wine and Four Feathers, managing the mechanics and logistics so that winemakers could focus on quality.
“He’s someone you want to have on your side,” Forsyth said. “Contractors and wine engineers would come to Prosser to study his projects.”
Josh McDaniels of Doubleback Winery presented the Erick Hanson Memorial Grower of the Year award to a longtime colleague of his, Jason Magnaghi, who has worked as the viticulturist for Figgins Family Wine Estates for 25 years.
“It’s not every day you get to hand an award to someone who did a lot for you early in your career,” McDaniels said. “He creates the atmosphere for the perfect grape in the vineyard.”
Magnaghi accepted the surprise award and thanked his own mentors, Chris Figgins and Kevin Corliss.
“And we wouldn’t be here without the people who do the work, so keep your crews safe, and thank you,” he said.
Corliss took his turn on stage as well, receiving the Lifetime Achievement Award, which was presented by John Derrick of Mercer Ranches.
Derrick praised Corliss, who recently retired from his position as vice president of vineyards at Ste. Michelle Wine Estates after a career that spanned four decades. He was recognized for his work on behalf of the industry championing clean plant programs, guiding Washington State University research and “mentoring countless viticulturists,” Derrick said. “Most of the industry will never know how many battles he quietly fought on their behalf, but we will all benefit from a lifetime of service to the industry by Kevin Corliss.”
Corliss said that despite retirement, he hoped to continue to be involved with the industry and support people working to grow great grapes.
“I can’t imagine a better award,” he said.
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